Guide books are great sources of information when you’re off on your travels. I took the Rough Guide to Egypt with me, but I saw just as many people leafing through Lonely Planet. Either way, they you lots of useful hints and tips. There’s some things that they don’t tell you, though. That’s the stuff you have to figure out, often through painful or embarrassing experience. I thought I’d mention a few things for anyone visiting or considering a holiday in Egypt.
Disclaimer - This is definitely not intended to be disrespectful or anti-Egyptian; it’s just what I found on my travels. Others may have entirely different experiences. I did have a great time in Egypt, and what’s not mentioned in this post - the sights, the sounds, the good times - is definitely mentioned in previous entries.
Arriving at Cairo airport:
On arrival, if you haven’t got a visa before leaving your home country, you need to get one before going through passport control. No-one mentions this, and there are no handy signs to warn you in advance. I waited in the queue at passport control for over half an hour, and then got sent to the back again because I hadn’t got a visa. There are several bank kiosks just before the passport queue, where you buy the visa that they stick in your passport. It costs around £GBP10.
After passport control and baggage collection, it’s out to the main hall. It’s likely you’ll be immediately accosted by touts asking if you want a taxi. If you say yes, they’ll try to take your suitcase off you to help you to the car. They will expect extra money for this, so either keep hold of your suitcase yourself or have a £E1 note handy.
On tipping:
You will tire of hearing the word baksheesh. Strictly speaking, I believe it means blessing, but in the normal context it means ‘give me money’. People will ask for baksheesh for many, many things - helping you with your bags (even if you don’t want them to), pointing the correct way to a landmark or street, taking a photograph of them, getting them to take a photo of you, providing toilet paper in a public toilet - or even for no reason, as is often the case with young children. If you think the tip is deserved, e.g. room cleaners in a hotel, then pay something, but don’t feel obligated to stump up cash for nothing. A fair tip is only £E1-2.
Taxis:
I know, my posts made it seem like I obsessed over them a bit - but unless you want to brave public transport like the buses or metro (and I didn’t want to venture there), taxis are the best way of getting around if the heat is too much for you to stomach walking any distance.
To take a taxi, just flag one down on the street and tell them your destination before getting in. They’re black and white, and extremely plentiful. They’ll even pull over if you don’t need one, and ask if you need a ride anywhere. Drivers are not obliged to take a fare, and if they don’t want to go to a certain destination then they’ll refuse and drive off.
The fare meters in taxis are never turned on. In general, prices are not agreed beforehand either, although those taxi drivers who want to get away with overcharging will often quote a price in advance. When you reach the destination, get out of the taxi and then pass the driver the money. Try to have the correct change or you’ll leave yourself open to being fleeced or hassled. No-one ever has change, it seems.
Acceptable fares:
From the airport to the city centre - £E40.
From downtown to the Pyramids or Heliopolis - £E15.
From downtown to Khan El-Khalili or Islamic/Old Cairo - £E5-7.
A hop across the city centre - £E5.
If the driver complains when you hand him the money when you know it’s a fair fare, and he refuses to take it, leave the fare on the passenger seat and walk away. Be firm.
On the roads:
Drivers in Cairo are, without exception, crazy. Cars are invariably boxy and beat up affairs, and the driving style is homicidal. Drivers weave in and out of traffic, communicating with other drivers through a complicated system of horn usage which, as far as I can tell, can mean anything from, “I’m coming through, make room,” to “What the hell are you doing, you idiot?”
There are traffic police all over the place, but they make little difference to the way of driving. Adherence to traffic signals is optional, so for God’s sake, be careful crossing the road. If a car does seem like its going to run you over as you cross, the done thing is to keep walking confidently whilst sticking your hand out as if you can stop it hitting you. Pray.
Purchases
Very rarely will you find price labels in general stores, the kind that sell drinks, snacks, cigarettes, etc. This is because there are two prices - the Egyptian price, and the tourist price. This is a country where haggling is pretty much compulsory. Again, the idea is to be firm. If they quote a vastly inflated price, laugh and tsk and quote a fairer one. You’ll still probably pay a little bit more than an Egyptian, but when you’re haggling over what amounts to mere pennies, only the most frugal travellers will object.
For a bottle of water, a can of Coke, or fresh juices (mango is gorgeous) - £E2-3. I was quoted anything up to £E8.
A packet of crisps (potato chips) - £E1.
A bar of chocolate - £E1-2.
Health
Don’t drink tap water. Cheap bottled water is there for a reason. Drink plenty of it - dehydration is not good.
Don’t eat unpeeled fruit.
Most places do have Western style toilets, but many won’t have toilet paper. Little tissue packets come in handy.
Cairo can be very humid. I highly recommend making sure your accommodation has air conditioning.
Cities are active well into the night. If you value your normal sleeping hours, find accommodation with good sound insulation, or invest in ear plugs.
Sun tan lotion is your friend, as is head protection from the sun - think scarf, hat, bandana.
Hassle/hustle/haggle
In terms of personal wealth, Egypt is a poor country. Wages are poor, and tourism is a vast source of income. As a result, vendors are always trying to get you to buy from them. You’ll often be approached by people with the intent to usher you into their shops. The two invariable starter questions - What’s your name? Where are you from? If you want none of it, ignore them and keep walking. If you want to be polite, greet them but keep walking. If you follow them into the shop, you get the hard sell, even if you’re told, ‘No hassle here, no obligation’. If you want to buy, it’s much better to go into a shop where you weren’t hustled in off the street.
The problem is, Egyptians are friendly in general, but it’s so hard to tell who is just being friendly - just saying hi - and who’s out to make money off you.
The other trick you’ll get is the outright con. I was on my way to the Egyptian Museum when a guy struck up a conversation with me and asked where I was going. I pointed at the Museum, and he shook his head and told me the museum was only open to groups until midday, so why didn’t I come and get a drink at his shop until then? Don’t believe it. The other one to watch out for is people telling you that the shop is government registered, and is therefore very respectable and honest and won’t try to overcharge you. Again, meaningless.
When haggling with vendors, especially when it comes to souvenirs and tourist tat, a decent rule of thumb is to initially offer 30% of the price quoted to you. They’ll laugh, they’ll protest, they’ll point out the quality of the item and how they have many tiny children to feed, but you’ll see the price come down slowly, and you can raise yours if you wish to find a happy compromise. The price will often come down even further if you try to leave the shop. Remember though - don’t feel forced to buy if you’re not sure. Also remember that a fair deal works both ways. It’s their livelihood, and while it’s not right for them to vastly overcharge you, you shouldn’t try to vastly undercut their profits either.
Women
You can happily travel on your own as a woman around Egypt, but expect attention. Unless you’re somewhere blatantly touristy like Sharm El-Sheikh or Dahab, don’t wander around in shorts, miniskirts, and strappy or lowcut tops. A Cairene friend told me that the perception of Western women by Egyptians is heavily influenced by Hollywood, and the appearance of women as sex objects. Even dressed relatively conservatively (cropped trousers and t-shirts most of the time) I was propositioned many times. The stock question seems to be ‘Are you married?’, followed by the comment that they would like an English wife. I generally lied and said I lived with a partner. Don’t say you’re gay, even if it’s true. Homosexuality continues to be a taboo in Egypt.
Useful phrases
Although many people speak fair to good English, a little effort at the native language always goes down well.
Yes - aiwa
No - la
Please - min fadlak
Thank you - shokran
Hello - ahlan w-sahlan
Goodbye - ma’a salaama
Leave me alone / Don’t touch me - sibni le wadi
Enough / finished - khalas
Written Arabic numbers
Useful to learn, as some numbers in Arabic look like ours, but are actually different. For example, a ‘0′ in Arabic is ‘5′ in English. Their ‘6′ looks like our ‘7′. ‘1′ and ‘9′ on the other hand are the same as in English.
Sharm El-Sheikh Airport
If you plan on eating at Sharm airport, take food with you instead of buying it there. The prices are beyond belief.
Leaving from Cairo Airport
Cairo Airport has 2 terminals. By default, the taxi drivers will take you to Terminal 1, but most English/US flights leave from Terminal 2. Check before you go or you’ll end up having to take a second taxi when you realise you’ve made the mistake.
There’s a lot more to Egypt than you might think. Like anywhere else, there’s good things and bad things. It’s well worth it to take the chance, though. Ultimately, have fun. It’s all an experience.